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This brooch is the work of the German-born Jeweller Helga Zahn (1936-1985), who made London her home in 1957.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
She came to study, and initially did so at Leeds College of Art and later at the Central School of Arts and Crafts, London.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The words in the brooch read as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The philosophers have only interpreted the world, in various ways; the point is to change it<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2013 Karl Marx, Theses On Feuerbach<\/em>: Thesis 11<\/a> (1845)<\/p>\n\n\n\n The use of a piece of jewellery as a medium for a message was a surprise, and completely new to me. Interesting too is the control given to the wearer, by Zahn, to choose which words to display \u2013 layers and secrets<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Zahn describes her work and process as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n “…to explain why I hate also making jewellery \u2026\u2026 and I do, not only because<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n the actual period of creation is very short, and the process of making very<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n tedious, but because of its limitations in self-expression and materialistic<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n overtone the word \u201cjewellery\u201d carries.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n I tried once to break that rule with a brooch I made, with a quotation by<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Karl Marx inside it. I failed miserably. The piece in itself is a contradiction,<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n so is the quotation, and the way I exhibited \u2026 another\u2026<\/em>“<\/p>\n\n\n\n While I experienced no sense of these frustrations in viewing her work, Zahn\u2019s perspective is revealing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the exception of the articulated pendant, Figure 2,<\/em> the style of the brooch appears unique in Zahn\u2019s overall output.<\/p>\n\n\n\n She is known, instead, for works combining metals with natural materials such as pebbles, shells, and bones. These were exploited for their colour and tactile qualities<\/p>\n\n\n\n A wonderful example is the dramatic silver neck-piece set with Cornish blue pebbles in Figure 3. Another example of pebble set jewellery is the silver articulated pendant in Figure 4. This also shows some influence with the colour choice in the work of Scandinavian jeweller Torun (1927-2004) \u2013 Figures, 5<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Zahn’s work was well respected, being recognised in 1973 with a solo exhibition mounted by the Crafts Advisory Committee (British Crafts Council).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ralph Turner, Curator, writer and critic of applied art. Head of Exhibitions, Crafts Council, 1974-1989, commented that from the outset Zahn \u201cquestioned accepted values of jewellery and made decisive and often defiant statements<\/em>.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n He believed her to be one of the first of the ..” important jewellers of the period who took contemporary jewellery beyond the traditional into the territory of experimentation and expression of feelings”<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now that I know about it I appreciate Zahn’s legacy of clarity, skill and originality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In fact, the period between the 1960s and 1980s in the UK was a very fertile time for creative, innovative, and exciting jewellery. Many examples of which are displayed in the Victoria & Albert Museum \u2013 London.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Further information:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The Victoria & Albert Museum \u2013 London – Jewellery collections: <\/em>http:\/\/www.vam.ac.uk<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Information and work re Helga Zahn: http: http:\/\/www.schmuck-zahn-helga.de\/schmuck3e<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n The British Crafts Council – Archive online: <\/em>http:\/\/www.craftscouncil.org.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Note:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Figure 1<\/strong> Source: image of Brooch – Helga Zahn: http:\/\/www.danner-stiftung.de\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Figure 2<\/strong> Source: image of pendant- Helga Zahn – British Crafts Council website:<\/p>\n\n\n\n http:\/\/www.viewonline.craftscouncil.org.uk\/4040\/object\/j22<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Figure 3<\/strong> Neckpiece: collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum: http:\/\/www.vam.ac.uk<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Figure 4<\/strong> Source: image neckpiece – Helga Zahn:<\/p>\n\n\n\n http:\/\/www.danner-stiftung.de\/sammlung\/erwerbunen_2010\/zahn_helga.html<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/bredahaugh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/Silver-Amber-Pendant-Breda-Haugh-Jewellery-Blog.jpeg\")
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